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I didn’t expect too much from Leipzig when we arrived for the second portion of the SATW convention. After all, Dresden had been such a delight – and we had very little time to see it all. And while Leipzig has some cool historic buildings, such as the Altes Rathaus (town hall) above, they are more spread out around the city so they don’t have the impact of many European cities. But sometimes it’s good to arrive in a place without expectations. We found ourselves charmed by the modern art and sculpture that we found in Leipzig streets. There’s been enough artistic momentum coming out of Leipzig’s Art Academy in recent years for academics and collectors to refer to the works as The New Leipzig School. Most of the more famous artists under this banner are painters, but there’s a fair amount of sculpture as well. Even while it was under Communist rule, Leipzig had a flourishing art scene, primarily because of the Academy for Visual Arts, which has been around since 1764. While we admired the artwork in the street, the city also has a large Fine Arts museum as well as a Contemporary Art Museum. We did have a bit of a personal connection that I wanted to explore. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe studied law in Leipzig from 1765 to 1768. During his tenure in the city, he frequented a beer hall called Auerbachs Keller, which he later used as a setting in his famed play Faust. First mentioned in records dating back to 1438, Auerbachs Keller is still an operating restaurant today. To get there, you go through the Mädlerpassage, an old shopping arcade in Leipzig’s historical district. We had a set dinner here in one of the historic rooms and while the buffet food wasn’t the greatest, the atmosphere made it worthwhile. The legend of Dr. Johann Georg Faust predates Goethe. Faust was a real figure in the German Renaissance, and worked as an alchemist and magician in the early 1500s. Because of his ventures into astrology, the church denounced him as a blasphemer in league with the devil. This reputation led to stories such as the one that claimed Faust rode a wine barrel up from the cellar at Auerbachs Keller to the street, something that could only happen with supernatural assistance. Scholars believe this legend is what inspired Goethe to make Auerbachs Keller the first stop where Mephistopheles takes Faust. My husband was excited to be at a restaurant where his name had such history. At one point, he and another travel writer went into a private dining room occupied by a group of men in their 50s and 60s. The writer introduced Don as Herr Faust and Don held up his name tag to shouts of laughter. Auerbachs Keller may have an ancient reputation for debauchery, but we noticed that Leipzig had an active nightlife throughout the city. Some members of our group found a hookah bar; others reported a Soviet-themed dive. We sneaked away and had our own date night in one of the packed cafes on Barfubgabchen, a narrow cobblestoned street near the historic center. The stop gave us a welcome break from the bratwurst and meats we had been eating. This salad had huge mushrooms that tasted delicious to our veggie-starved palate. Although the night was chilly, we were warmed by the massive heat lamps employed by most of the cafes. We were surprised at how full many of the restaurants were on a Monday night. But our server scoffed. “You should see it on the weekend,” she said. Perhaps Leipzig’s most famous historic resident is composer Johann Sebastian Bach. Born into a musical family in Eisenbach, Bach moved to Leipzig with his family in 1723 to take a job as cantor at St. Thomas Church (Thomaskirche). At the time, Leipzig was one of Germany’s cultural capitals, and the appointment at St. Thomas, known for its boarding school for choir singers, represented a prominent career point for Bach. Although he often traveled to act as an organ consultant, Bach spent the majority of his life in Leipzig with his large family (he had 20 children with two wives, although only 10 survived to adulthood). Some of Leipzig’s other famous composers, including Felix Mendelssohn and Richard Wagner, performed and studied here. Wolfgang Mozart even performed the organ at St. Thomas in 1789. Thomaskirche is a Lutheran church that is just as elaborate as many Catholic cathedrals. There’s been a church on the site since the 12th Century and Martin Luther himself preached here in 1539. Bach’s remains have been interred in the church since 1950. Every year, Leipzig hosts BachFest that attracts more than 65,000 classical music lovers from around the world. And this year, the city opened a state-of-the-art Bach Museum in March, just in time for Bach’s 325th birthday. The Museum is a great way for a music lover to spend an afternoon. There are historical musical instruments, including an organ console that Bach examined himself, as well as original sheet music written by Bach. Admission to the museum is 6 Euro and it’s free on the first Tuesday of every month. Bach is by no means the only composer celebrated in Leipzig. Felix Mendelssohn’s private home is also a museum, where you can see artifacts and sheet music. There’s also a performance space in his apartment where concerts are occasionally held. Besides its cultural legacy, Leipzig has played an important role in modern history. In September 1989, East Germans began gathering in front of the St. Nicholas Church in protest against the Chinese Communist regime’s crackdown on demonstrators in Tienanmen Square. Because the Lutheran Church supported their efforts, the demonstrators eventually became more bold and started campaigning for rights in their own country. Eventually the non-violent resistance spread to other East German cities such as Dresden and Berlin. This Peaceful Revolution led to the fall of the Berlin Wall on Nov. 9, 1989. Our final stop in Leipzig? A visit to the space-age Porsche plant just outside of town. Even the most jaded travel writers couldn’t resist getting their photo taken in the sweet Porsches – myself included! If you’re a Porsche enthusiast, you can drive on the Leipzig test track and take a factory tour. It’s a big thing in Porsche circles to go to Leipzig or Stuttgart and pick up your Porsche in person. So maybe I’ll be back some day. Hey, a girl can dream! Tags: Auerbachs Keller, Bach Museum, Europe, Faust, Germany, Goethe, Johann Sebastion Bach, Leipzig, Mendelssohn Haus, Porsche plant, SATW, Saxony, Thomaskirche, travel Tweet This Digg This Save to delicious Stumble it RSS Feed 9 Comments Marilyn Marx says: November 18, 2010 at 4:41 pm That Porsche suits you, Chris! Great piece on Leipzig. It filled me in on some of the things I missed, perhaps most especially that gorgeous salad! Reply Chris says: November 21, 2010 at 4:47 pm Marilyn – Thanks, but I think it will be a while before I have one of my own The salad was delicious, especially after those meat-and-cheese intensive breakfasts! Reply Tom Adkinson says: November 18, 2010 at 10:44 pm I’m usually not one to seek out churches to tour, but St. Thomas Church was an exception. The Bach connection was key, and the photo I got of the Bach window was rather good. While standing at the altar rail for a different shot, I sensed people behind me. I turned and found myself as the back row of a Hungarian girls’ high school choir. They were starting an impromptu concert, regardless of my presence! I squeezed past the girl on the end and then photographed the concert.
Such a good memory of Leipzig. Reply Chris says: November 21, 2010 at 4:48 pm Tom – That sounds like a great memory! I love how German churches have historically placed a great emphasis on their choirs, and I can see why singing groups from around the world want to perform in them. Reply Ingo says: November 21, 2010 at 2:23 am Glad you enjoyed Leipzig that much. Very nice report and pictures. (You mixed up one picture of Nikolaikirche interior with the Thomaskirche pictures). Reply Chris says: November 21, 2010 at 4:45 pm Ingo, thanks for pointing that out. It’s fixed now! Reply jobs in australia says: November 24, 2010 at 12:16 am I saw that you really have a great time traveling there. Very cool Porsche cars. Really wanna have one someday. Reply Tim Morston says: November 26, 2010 at 9:49 am Interesting blog and some fantastic pictures – All my pictures of the Rathaus have the tram pylons in them, impressive work! Leipzig is a nicer city than Dresden in terms of culture, I think, although the old buildings in Dresden are much more closely situated. Reply Nancie says: December 3, 2010 at 5:32 pm Not a city I was familiar with. Great post, and I love that Porsche! Reply Leave a Reply Click here to cancel reply. Name (required) Mail (will not be published) (required) Website Trackbacks Leave a Trackback Related Posts Dresden: Baroque Downed PalacesBerlin: Third Reich sitesSchloss-o-rama: Medieval Castles in Saxony, GermanyDie Mauern: The Berlin Wall (East Side Gallery)Berlin Festival of LightsDie Mauern: The Berlin Wall (Topography of Terror & Checkpoint Charlie)How much will you pay for hotel luxe? A few Berlin options under $250East Berlin Ostalgie: Ampelmaennchen (Ampelmann)Michelin Star Madness: Dinner at Guy Savoy ParisWebsite upgrade: Travel.ViaMichelin.com Comments Recent Popular Tags Art Basel Miami Beach: What to Expect December 11, 2010 15:12 Miami Style: Loud, Proud and Stand Out In a Crowd December 8, 2010 12:12 Hello Kitty Design: the Sanrio/Small Gifts Pop-Up Shop in Miami December 5, 2010 13:12 TSA Airport Security: Is it time for a Trusted Traveler biometric program? December 2, 2010 04:12 Berlin: Third Reich sites December 1, 2010 11:12 The NVR Guys: Funny, my immediate reaction was the "knitter gone wild" piece was awesome and didn't even notice the Bollywood dancer. ... Chris: Yeah, it's weird how high altitude can affect certain people - and not others. As I said in the post, I had been at high... MadDog: I have lived in Colorado for my whole life. My mother has lived in the state for slightly longer than that. She has some... Chris: Michael - Thanks for your thoughtful comments. I do think that the TSA has been crossing the line here, to the point whe... Chris: Jason, sounds like you guys are in for a fantastic trip! Being on the road certainly forces you to get rid of the things... Goodbye to all of that... (94)
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The reckless idiocy of that VW takeover plan, pursued in stealth through the options market in Germany, has ended with Porsche itself on the block. CEO Wendelin Wiedeking and CFO Holger Härter have been forced out, albeit with gold-encrusted bin liners. But what’s left still defies conventional valuation analysis.
Porsche is now planning to raise at least €5bn and seal an unquantified investment from Qatar, whereby “the ultimate goal is to lay the foundations for creating an integrated car manufacturing company from Porsche SE and Volkswagen AG”. But now that the takeover game has been reversed, Warburton is wondering whether the VW management and its state shareholder Lower Saxony will be able to explain the price they eventually pay for Porsche:
We’re not convinced that Porsche really is “home and dry” after these developments. There’s still no evidence that it has a deal to sell, or transfer, its options over c.20% of VW to Qatar — note press stories over the weekend suggesting that Qatar may take only 10% of VW… There’s still no clarity on what its real debt position now is (note a press story this weekend in Focus, a German magazine, suggesting that Porsche’s real debt position is c.€14bn, versus the €9bn it last reported and €10bn that we assume). The purchase of core Porsche has not yet been formally agreed to by Lower Saxony, as far as we understand. The capital raising by Porsche may need to be much larger than the figure of “at least €5bn” stated by Porsche.
A key question for the Bernstein man is whether VW actually ends up paying a takeover premium to acquire its own earnings.
At issue is the Porsche Cayenne – a hugely successful project that wouldn’t have happened without VW capital.
The Cayenne is manufactured by VW in Bratislava, with Porsche then fitting the Cayenne S and Cayenne Turbo engines at its own facility at Leipzip, while the Cayenne V6 and Cayenne diesels arrive from VW all but complete.
According to Warburton, Porsche is buying Cayennes for just €22,000 per unit and then selling these on to customers at up to €90,000 a pop – a wildly profitable arrangement. In so doing, the analyst reckons VW is “gifting” Porsche about half its EBIT:
We believe that of Porsche’s peak EBIT of €1.4bn, Cayenne generated about 50%, 911 about 40% and Boxster/Cayman just 10%. In fact, the low price points of Boxster suggest that while it makes a gross margin (and cash contribution), it may well be EBIT loss making. What VW will buy if it acquires Porsche’s operating business is a small assembly plant at Zuffenhausen, Stuttgart, capable of building 911s and engines, a screwdriver plant at Leipzig, a distribution network, an engineering consultancy and a fantastic automotive brand.
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Porsche deal ends family feud over car stakes – FT Porsche – FT Lex This entry was posted by Paul Murphy on Monday, July 27th, 2009 at 9:57 and is filed under Capital markets, M&A. Tagged with porsche, volkswagen. Edit this entry. EmailSharePrint Tags WP Cumulus Flash tag cloud by Roy Tanck and Luke Morton requires Flash Player 9 or better. Popular posts1Bonds: Bubble, bubble, toil and trouble2China: The kings of quantitative easing3Further reading4Rollover is all5Further reading6Goldman's uneasy subprime short7Spain is all about the banks8What fresh basis the ECB hath wrought9Merkel-mouth10Markets Live transcript 9 Dec 2010Show moreMost commented1China: The kings of quantitative easing2Spain is all about the banks3US-China export puzzle4Merkel-mouth5US equities: the least worst place of last resort6Bonds: Bubble, bubble, toil and trouble7Another milestone for junk debt8Contingent liabilities, letter of credit edition9Goldman's uneasy subprime short10The deficit in public opinionShow moreBlogroll A fistful of euros
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